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Going back to work on the Stang

fordman84

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Usually the worst part of the old Stangs is the rust.

That used to be true on this one. Not a spec of rust on her now, replaced the cowls and floor pans, two fenders and the back skirt. The body work is all done and she's a nice primer gray, which is usually the hardest part.
 

Breaker99

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Here is what I stared at today, not even sure where to begin

photo1_zpsfb6e1283.jpg


I actually do know where to start, but I'm going branch by branch to figure out what I need and what I have. I'm thoroughly confused by the instrument panel. Ford made everything crazy simple, but this aftermarket stuff is for aftermarket gauges so there is crap I don't need and can't figure out how to make all the instrument lights into single wire connections. I'm fried today, probably will figure it all out in 5 minutes tomorrow.

My advice, if you have to cut and splice anything.... use solder and heat shrink tubing. Electrical tape under the dash is a big no no in my book.
 

fordman84

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My advice, if you have to cut and splice anything.... use solder and heat shrink tubing. Electrical tape under the dash is a big no no in my book.

Couldn't agree more. This kit I'm using has pretty much everything needed, but there is some cutting to length and adding the connectors and then quick connections. They are using the F type crimp connectors, and my crimper isn't made for those specifically so I just ordered two new ones. Spent $100 per pair, but now I can make factory crimps on those connectors and not have to worry about them pulling loose. I probably won't solder most of the connections, but I plan on doing all the under-dash ones that way. The only electrical tape you will see on that puppy is the stuff wrapping the main run. I have a ton of tech flex ready for the individual branches. For what that harness, and all the parts on this thing cost, I want a professional look. :)
 

fordman84

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If you use tape for the main harness I would recommend 3M Super 33+ Vinyl electrical tape. Its really nice and stretchy and doesn't kink or get wrinkles...

Amazon.com: super 33 vinyl electrical tape

I used something called like 3M 88. Saw the super 33, but the 88 stuff I got is for more harsh environment. Gonna be hot up around that firewall. Don't think I could go wrong with either of those though. Last thing I want is to go cheap on something that could kill the car or cause inspection issues for the rest of the cars life. :nod:
 
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JohnRandle

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Usually the worst part of the old Stangs is the rust.

Not any more than the rest back in those days. But the cowls were a bad spot, after they get full of dirt and leaves they plug and hold water. After a few years of this they would rust through. The next thing you know the inside floor pans are sitting in water as well.

Back then, they didn't build cars to last forever.
 

JohnRandle

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Hey fordman,
What site do you go to for questions on the Mustang?
There's a few, but one in particular that I like.
 

fordman84

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Hey fordman,
What site do you go to for questions on the Mustang?
There's a few, but one in particular that I like.

I think I have accounts all over the web. Right now there is a vintage mustang forum I've been reading. Most guys on those forums are insanely brilliant about them that I just shut up and read. Seems to me there must have been some classic mustang line workers the way they can just rattle off info.

Most questions I have others have already asked, so I just google it and it takes me to whatever site is discussing it.
 

JohnRandle

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Most have a FAQs page too.
The one I always went to is actually down, hope it's not permanent, there were a lot of great people on that site.
I know the owner was MIA for a while. Bummer
 

fordman84

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So this weekend I got out and cleaned up the instrument panel and got it all rewired and ready for install. Thought that was going to be the hardest part, wasn't too bad. Wanting to keep it all stock looking so I found an aftermarket Volt gauge to swap in for the ammeter, a little paint and some "fitting" later and it looks stock. I stupidly didn't take a photo before packing it away until the rest is done. I'll dig it out. It's all wired up, cleaned up, new woodgrain bezel, new lights all the way around, painted the needles bright orange so I can seem em at night :)
Last night I got a wild hair while ripping out the old wiring at the back of the car and took the fuel tank out. I knew it had some gas it in, ended up being about 5 gallons. Had to take it out and drain it by hand. 17 year old gas doesn't smell too good. Ordered a new sending unit and have washed this tank out. It was replaced in 1989 it says, stamped that date anyways.

Any of you guys that have done a full restoration...do you roll the odometer back? Mine will be brand new all the way around (body, paint, interior, wiring,engine, transmission, suspension) so i wouldn't feel bad resetting it.

For good measure, here is the next task...taking the main wiring harness out. Look at that mess :L

download_zpsf7525d51.jpg


Luckily I have a new one of everything in that photo.
 

NativeWebfoot

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I've reset the odometer back once while the eng was out being rebuilt. I see nothing wrong with doing that as long as you're honest about it later if selling or showing the car. Mine was a daily driver '66 Plym Fury Conv that was ugly as sin and a "sleeper" I street raced. By the time I sold it, the reman oil pump had gone out on the fwy, spinning bearings and ruining the crank. I put a used eng in it and sold it, telling the buyer the odo had "turned over" and was inaccurate.
 

JohnRandle

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So this weekend I got out and cleaned up the instrument panel and got it all rewired and ready for install. Thought that was going to be the hardest part, wasn't too bad. Wanting to keep it all stock looking so I found an aftermarket Volt gauge to swap in for the ammeter, a little paint and some "fitting" later and it looks stock. I stupidly didn't take a photo before packing it away until the rest is done. I'll dig it out. It's all wired up, cleaned up, new woodgrain bezel, new lights all the way around, painted the needles bright orange so I can seem em at night :)
Last night I got a wild hair while ripping out the old wiring at the back of the car and took the fuel tank out. I knew it had some gas it in, ended up being about 5 gallons. Had to take it out and drain it by hand. 17 year old gas doesn't smell too good. Ordered a new sending unit and have washed this tank out. It was replaced in 1989 it says, stamped that date anyways.

Any of you guys that have done a full restoration...do you roll the odometer back? Mine will be brand new all the way around (body, paint, interior, wiring,engine, transmission, suspension) so i wouldn't feel bad resetting it.

For good measure, here is the next task...taking the main wiring harness out. Look at that mess :L

download_zpsf7525d51.jpg


Luckily I have a new one of everything in that photo.




I wouldn't worry about it, you're not doing it to cheat anybody.
 

fordman84

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I wouldn't worry about it, you're not doing it to cheat anybody.

Yeah spoke with a few guys here at work that restore cars, there is a group of em that do car shows, and they said the same thing. Just when I get it retitled I can check the box saying the odometer can't be verified and that in cars that old, once the odometer rolls over 100K it is considered "tampered" or unverifiable.


Bad news last night I found was that even though I tried really hard to clean it and preserve it, the gas tank has to be replaced. Gas that long just destroyed it and as soon as I hit it with soap and water to rinse it the inside just rusted right up. The odd thing I've found when looking for a new one is that every company states where the tank was made. You can find "Made in America", "Imported", and "Made in Canada by American Company". There is a $20 difference between American and Imported with Canadian right in the middle. I'm buying American. It did make me check my items I have bought so far and it looks like Drake stuff is American made too. Probably :lame: but doing my part :)
 

BTHOtu

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Unless you're going for a total restore they have some pretty cool aftermarket stuff out there. I was thinking of converting a 65 to a more modern cluster...
something like this
VHX-65F-MUS_486-500x500.jpg

or this
dd65mb.png

I'm the type of asshole that would take a classic and fill it full of digital touch screens, heads up display, etc.
However....I've been having a wild hair to do a fox body. Somebody stop me before I buy one.

I finished modding my 13 GT and am getting 420 HP to the wheels.
 

fordman84

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Unless you're going for a total restore they have some pretty cool aftermarket stuff out there. I was thinking of converting a 65 to a more modern cluster...
something like this
VHX-65F-MUS_486-500x500.jpg

or this
dd65mb.png

I'm the type of asshole that would take a classic and fill it full of digital touch screens, heads up display, etc.
However....I've been having a wild hair to do a fox body. Somebody stop me before I buy one.

I finished modding my 13 GT and am getting 420 HP to the wheels.

Nice. I'm not going concours but I'm also not doing a full resto-mod. Just wanting to update everything, get it looking nice, put the "yeah, I've restored a 66 mustang" notch in my belt, and sell the SOB. :) I've got a '49 Ford F1 sitting in my dad's barn that I'm dying to get to, but putting $7k into this one will double my money and give me plenty to make a bitchin' 49 without the wife complaining too much about money spent on toys. I've got the woodgrain version of the first photo you put up there, the stock '66 5 gauge...but with stock looking black gauges. Not willing to drop $600 on new gauges as long as these work and look good. Luckily the one positive I have found about this car (literally only one so far) is that it was already pony interior. So I can buy a Pony kit without having to spend extra to "convert" it.
 

dougplayer

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I wish Ford offered leases on new Mustangs.

was told they don't offer them..if they did. It would be so high.
how can Chevy lease the Camero but Ford cant lease a stang????
 

fordman84

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I wish Ford offered leases on new Mustangs.

was told they don't offer them..if they did. It would be so high.
how can Chevy lease the Camero but Ford cant lease a stang????

I've never heard that. Have you tried going through a secondary lease company? Here in Dallas we have two, DM autoleasing and autoflex. I've never leased, but I hear their commercials and sound like they buy cars then lease them.
 

BTHOtu

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Back when I was researching my 13 I thought the website offered leasing. But it makes sense that they wouldn't

The new Mustangs with the Coyote 5.0 is one of the most heavily modded cars out there right now with tons of aftermarket mods available. I've got several on mine right now. Lease that to someone so they can mod it out and tear it up...

I compared four cars before I bought the Stang. Spent several months online looking at every option. Took a lot of test drives.

Corvette - Felt Claustrophobic
Camaro - Hated the interior
Challenger - Looked kind of cheap
Mustang - Had the best bang for the buck.
 

fordman84

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Back when I was researching my 13 I thought the website offered leasing. But it makes sense that they wouldn't

The new Mustangs with the Coyote 5.0 is one of the most heavily modded cars out there right now with tons of aftermarket mods available. I've got several on mine right now. Lease that to someone so they can mod it out and tear it up...

I compared four cars before I bought the Stang. Spent several months online looking at every option. Took a lot of test drives.

Corvette - Felt Claustrophobic
Camaro - Hated the interior
Challenger - Looked kind of cheap
Mustang - Had the best bang for the buck.

Those Coyote 5.0's are going into the classics right now. Direct swap and lots of guys are doing it. Pretty sweet and if I hadn't already rebuilt my '67 302 I'd be out looking for one right now.
 

dougplayer

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I lease.. only live 10 miles from work.

work with 3 guys that lease cameros.
but there is about 10 mustangs in the parking lot at work.

the new mustangs are sharp. dam I want one
 
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