Need mechanic help.....

[Bayou Tiger]

CKP - Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Standard PC123 | eBay


CMP - https://www.walmart.com/ip/ACDelco-...75035&wl11=online&wl12=34176309&wl13=&veh=sem

 

[Vitamike]

Appreciate at it, I have checked the connectors and they seem fine . I guess the fun work will begin this weekend tracing the wiring.

You've got some good advice along with some chuckles, but I'm sorry to say it's not as simple as removing your battery cable for some duration.

You said you are having trouble at start up, this indicates the PCM is not sending the proper voltage (5v) when the timing is advanced during engine cranking most likely due to an open wire or a bad connector. (BTW - I'm sure you disconnected your battery several times when you replaced each of the parts you listed, and it is the final step along with clearing your engine light as Harry Seaward mentioned)

With that however, it may not be as hard as tracing wires all weekend either because the code indicates that the open is between the ICM and the PCM. (PCM aka VCM)

During an engine crank, check for ground (BLK/WHT), if okay (Also during an engine crank) Check the Ignition Timing Signal (WHT) for 5v.

You may also want to check the fuse bicok first. (Fuse 20 & 21) Make sure both are good and both are 20 amps.

 

[Bayou Tiger]

You've got some good advice along with some chuckles, but I'm sorry to say it's not as simple as removing your battery cable for some duration.

You said you are having trouble at start up, this indicates the PCM is not sending the proper voltage (5v) when the timing is advanced during engine cranking most likely due to an open wire or a bad connector. (BTW - I'm sure you disconnected your battery several times when you replaced each of the parts you listed, and it is the final step along with clearing your engine light as Harry Seaward mentioned)

With that however, it may not be as hard as tracing wires all weekend either because the code indicates that the open is between the ICM and the PCM. (PCM aka VCM)

During an engine crank, check for ground (BLK/WHT), if okay (Also during an engine crank) Check the Ignition Timing Signal (WHT) for 5v.

You may also want to check the fuse bicok first. (Fuse 20 & 21) Make sure both are good and both are 20 amps.

I would check for that pulse. Then back track to the sensors for cam and crank shaft.

What appears to be happening is the ICM is not getting synced with the cam or crank shaft at startup and is taking a time to do so. Probably a bad connection or faulty wire. Eventually it finds itself and runs like it should.

 

[Peter Gozintite]

Thread delivered!

 

[Vitamike]

I would check for that pulse. Then back track to the sensors for cam and crank shaft.

What appears to be happening is the ICM is not getting synced with the cam or crank shaft at startup and is taking a time to do so. Probably a bad connection or faulty wire. Eventually it finds itself and runs like it should.

Yep, it could be as simple as an oxidized connector creating an open but eventually makes the connection. If it appears oxidized, clean the contact and apply a small amount of dielectric grease prior to reconnecting.

You can use this, and it's pretty cheap.

 

[DetroitDevil]

You should get the "My Mechanic Siri" After following instructions and holding the phone under the hood, Siri told me the compression ring in cylinder 7 is failing. And it was right....

My Mechanic Siri

 

[Pokes-WalkingBoss]

I appreciate the input gentlemen. I have gained some useful information.

Each time I have replaced one of the previously mention parts I have disconnected the battery.

Yesterday afternoon after work just for the hell of it I cut into and replaced the connector to the ICM. Not a big fan of splicing into the wiring. This "appears" for the moment to have corrected the issue. Drove it to work (23 miles) check engine light is off. Will know more on the drive back this afternoon.

 

[mrwallace2ku]

HAVE: 88' ACURA LEGEND V6

PROBLEM: FRONT END "KLUNKING NOISE"



WANTS: NOISE GONE, FRONT ROTORS/PADS, NEW BOOTS ON THE STEERING RACK, NEW DRIVE AXLES…COST 800 BUCKS, PARTZ-N-LABOR…i'm fine with that. cars gone for 2 weeks-side work.


GET THE CAR BACK:


SAME NOISE, MECHANIC ADDED A NEW UPPER CONTROL WHEEL ASSEMBLY, NO ADDITIONAL COST.


call my guy about the same "klunck noise", he drives over to my house and dis-assemblys the entire wheel assembly in 45 minutes…diagnosis? lower ball joint on the same side he replaced the upper control ball joint whateverrs…say it's a done deal tomorrow night, who does that?

 

[outofyourmind]

HAVE: 88' ACURA LEGEND V6

PROBLEM: FRONT END "KLUNKING NOISE"



WANTS: NOISE GONE, FRONT ROTORS/PADS, NEW BOOTS ON THE STEERING RACK, NEW DRIVE AXLES…COST 800 BUCKS, PARTZ-N-LABOR…i'm fine with that. cars gone for 2 weeks-side work.


GET THE CAR BACK:


SAME NOISE, MECHANIC ADDED A NEW UPPER CONTROL WHEEL ASSEMBLY, NO ADDITIONAL COST.


call my guy about the same "klunck noise", he drives over to my house and dis-assemblys the entire wheel assembly in 45 minutes…diagnosis? lower ball joint on the same side he replaced the upper control ball joint whateverrs…say it's a done deal tomorrow night, who does that?

Incompetent fucks do that, that's who.
Who in the hell works on a car and doesn't drive it afterwards to verify it's fixed.
Oh, that's right. Shit for brains mother fuckers.

 

[Vitamike]

call my guy about the same "klunck noise", he drives over to my house and dis-assemblys the entire wheel assembly in 45 minutes…diagnosis? lower ball joint on the same side he replaced the upper control ball joint whateverrs…say it's a done deal tomorrow night, who does that?

The 2 weeks sounds legit.

 

[mrwallace2ku]

DAY2


lower ball joint replaced, front left wheel assembly totally rebuilt…


test drive result…same "klunking noise" located in the front left vehicle quadrant. i told my mechanic to bring a bigger hammer to the next dance.

diagnosis…cars headed to the shop rack and a spanking.


i will keep this board apprised of the ongoing gremlin chase. good action.


it's like geology…time and pressure. in my case it's time and money.


ONWERDZ!

 

[JuiceTheGator]

DAY2


lower ball joint replaced, front left wheel assembly totally rebuilt…


test drive result…same "klunking noise" located in the front left vehicle quadrant. i told my mechanic to bring a bigger hammer to the next dance.

diagnosis…cars headed to the shop rack and a spanking.


i will keep this board apprised of the ongoing gremlin chase. good action.


it's like geology…time and pressure. in my case it's time and money.


ONWERDZ!

Motor mount? ?

 

[mrwallace2ku]

Motor mount? ?

good call…mechanic calls it a "rotational" noise. Suppose that's why he so focused on the wheel. He will find on Monday.

i talked about anything bolted down to the body or frame (motor mount, steering rack bracket, ect), but he knows it's a rotational noise going klunk, klunk, klunk when the brakes are applied.

 

[williewilliejuan]

HAVE: 88' ACURA LEGEND V6

PROBLEM: FRONT END "KLUNKING NOISE"



WANTS: NOISE GONE, FRONT ROTORS/PADS, NEW BOOTS ON THE STEERING RACK, NEW DRIVE AXLES…COST 800 BUCKS, PARTZ-N-LABOR…i'm fine with that. cars gone for 2 weeks-side work.


GET THE CAR BACK:


SAME NOISE, MECHANIC ADDED A NEW UPPER CONTROL WHEEL ASSEMBLY, NO ADDITIONAL COST.


call my guy about the same "klunck noise", he drives over to my house and dis-assemblys the entire wheel assembly in 45 minutes…diagnosis? lower ball joint on the same side he replaced the upper control ball joint whateverrs…say it's a done deal tomorrow night, who does that?

 

[mrwallace2ku]

Motor mount? ?

guy says it's a rotational noise…my vcash is on a wheel bearing then.


and i've been wrong at least 15 times already.

 

[JuiceTheGator]

guy says it's a rotational noise…my vcash is on a wheel bearing then.


and i've been wrong at least 15 times already.

That usually makes a humming noise, not thunking! And when the breaks are applied??

 

[Bayou Tiger]

good call…mechanic calls it a "rotational" noise. Suppose that's why he so focused on the wheel. He will find on Monday.

i talked about anything bolted down to the body or frame (motor mount, steering rack bracket, ect), but he knows it's a rotational noise going klunk, klunk, klunk when the brakes are applied.

Check to see if someone tied a zip-tie to your driveshaft.

 

[mrwallace2ku]

That usually makes a humming noise, not thunking! And when the breaks are applied??

only when the brakes are applied.

 

[JuiceTheGator]

only when the brakes are applied.

Can't be bearings I don't think. Throw that Jap shit away.

 

[mrwallace2ku]

Throw that Jap shit away.

car hauls ass when running right…seems like a waste to get rid of er now?