Brake issue

[Locke888]

Yesterday my niece says her front driver side tire is making a scratchy sound. I’m thinking brakes. She brings it over and I take off the tire and sure enough the brakes need changed. I head to auto zone and grab some pads. I change out the driver side, they were extremely thin. I go to change the passenger side and find that they had like 70% life left!?
I’ve never seen this before. Why is one side wearing out so bad and the other not?

 

[Locke888]

Welp after some research I’m thinking the guide pins are stuck. Never had to mess with them before. Hope they come out easy. I’ll have to work on this tomorrow.

 

[Yankee Traveler]

Welp after some research I’m thinking the guide pins are stuck. Never had to mess with them before. Hope they come out easy. I’ll have to work on this tomorrow.

How did it work out?

 

[Locke888]

How did it work out?

Didn’t work. Still has a burning smell when driven a good distance. I’ll be checking the caliper piston for debris. If it looks ok I guess I’ll replace it.

 

[Debbie Does]

Might be a good time to have someone check and flush the brake lines, too. If one is clogged, that one will be far less effective which will overstress the one on the opposite side.

 

[Yankee Traveler]

Didn’t work. Still has a burning smell when driven a good distance. I’ll be checking the caliper piston for debris. If it looks ok I guess I’ll replace it.

That was my guess, sticky caliper, before you mentioned the slider bolts.

When you changed the slider...guides...did you clean and lube the caliper where it slides on the guides?

 

[Locke888]

That was my guess, sticky caliper, before you mentioned the slider bolts.

When you changed the slider...guides...did you clean and lube the caliper where it slides on the guides?

Yep. Lubed them up real good.

I saw on YouTube a guy was saying if you change 1 caliper you should change both sides. (Driver and passenger side)Thoughts? I was just gonna replace the one.

 

[Yankee Traveler]

Yep. Lubed them up real good.

I saw on YouTube a guy was saying if you change 1 caliper you should change both sides. (Driver and passenger side)Thoughts? I was just gonna replace the one.

I would definitely do both.
And if that cures it, I would also look at doing both rotors. If one side was dragging it may have gotten the rotor pretty hot and glazed it.
You may be able to have them turned.

While I like to keep mine equal side to side, I have been known to run mine thinner than what Midas and the likes will tell you is the minimum.
As long as there is no vibration or pulsing that is.

 

[Hank Kingsley]

I had an issue with my SHO once where I was getting a real horrible noise from the right front. I took it apart many times lubing pins, checking the calipers, etc. then one morning it was just so brutal. I turned around at the end of the block. In the end, it wasn’t my brakes. It was the wheel bearing. But nothing was wobbling.

 

[Fish]

Might be a good time to have someone check and flush the brake lines, too. If one is clogged, that one will be far less effective which will overstress the one on the opposite side.

I pull my silverado behind my motorhome 4 down. 3 years ago my tpms showed a temp of 158 degrees on my right front tire of my truck. Pulled over at a rest area, did everything I could do, then onward to our Florida spot.

I changed pads once I got to our lot, still dragging. It turned out to be the brake line. A mechanic told me that if a brake line breaks down, it will allow the braking pressure through, but it won't let it back out. It's under pressure during braking but when you release the brakes it's just bleeding off pressure.

New brake line on that side fixed it.

 

[Hank Kingsley]

The other potential noise maker is getting a piece of gravel wedged in between the rotor and the dust plate on the backside.

 

[Locke888]

I pull my silverado behind my motorhome 4 down. 3 years ago my tpms showed a temp of 158 degrees on my right front tire of my truck. Pulled over at a rest area, did everything I could do, then onward to our Florida spot.

I changed pads once I got to our lot, still dragging. It turned out to be the brake line. A mechanic told me that if a brake line breaks down, it will allow the braking pressure through, but it won't let it back out. It's under pressure during braking but when you release the brakes it's just bleeding off pressure.

New brake line on that side fixed it.

Oh man

So a couple months ago she brought me the car because the car was overheating. Turned out to be a thermostat. I changed that no problem. Noticed her brake fluid was GREEN. WTF I say, I think maybe moisture contamination. I bleed the brakes. Fluid looks fine right now. Could this be a symptom of a bad brake line?

 

[Fish]

Oh man

So a couple months ago she brought me the car because the car was overheating. Turned out to be a thermostat. I changed that no problem. Noticed her brake fluid was GREEN. WTF I say, I think maybe moisture contamination. I bleed the brakes. Fluid looks fine right now. Could this be a symptom of a bad break line?

I don't know, never heard of brake fluid turning green.

 

[Locke888]

I don't know, never heard of brake fluid turning green.

When I saw it I looked exactly like this and I’m a white guy

 

[Locke888]

Here’s the pic of it.
Nasty

 

[fknhippie]

View attachment 396890
Here’s the pic of it.
Nasty

Green brake fluid is not normal and often indicates a problem with the brake system, specifically contamination. The most common cause is copper contamination, which can result from oxidation of brake lines or deterioration of brake fluid additives. It can also indicate moisture infiltration, which can reduce the boiling point of the fluid and lead to brake fade.

Here's a more detailed explanation:

• Copper Contamination:
  Greenish brake fluid is often a sign of copper oxide, which forms when brake fluid reacts with copper in the brake system. This can happen due to aging brake lines, the breakdown of fluid additives, or moisture contamination.
  
  
• • Moisture Contamination:
    Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. As the water content increases, it lowers the boiling point of the fluid, which can lead to brake fade and potentially serious brake failure.
    
  • Recommended Action:
    If you find green brake fluid in your car, it's crucial to have the brake system flushed and the fluid replaced.
    
  • Other Signs:
    Besides the green color, other signs of a problem with brake fluid include a dark brown or black color, which also indicates contamination and the need for replacement.
    
  • Mineral Oil Brake Fluid:
    Some mineral oil brake fluids, like Maxima Mineral Oil, are intentionally dyed green for identification purposes. This type of fluid is used in certain types of brake systems, especially those found on bicycles and other non-automotive applications.