What are you brewing

[potzer25]

Plan for this weekend: Oatmeal Stout

 

[757Hokie83]

just put an order in for enough to make a couple batches...so hopefully next weekend...and i honestly am not even sure what to call them, lol...ill post recipes in the recipe thread

 

[wartyOne]

Vanilla Milk Stout in the conical right now. Oatmeal Stout and American Wheat on tap. Just finished an ESB in the keg. Both stouts are sweet stouts.

Planning an IPA, an American Pale, and a Marzen in the upcoming weeks.

 

[Cobrabit]

Just racked the white zinfandel into carboy 1 and am in the process of brewing an amber ale:

- 6 lbs gold LME
- 8 oz. caramel 80L
- 2 oz. special B
- 2 oz. roasted malt

- 1 oz. hallertau (60 mins)
- 1 oz. fuggles (2 mins)

- Wyeast American Ale

Figured I'd have something to drink over the next few months while half of my Oktoberfest lagers until my birthday in September (other half will not make it till then).

 

[Edisto_Tiger]

So, if I wanted to start brewing, where should I begin? What books, recipes, web sites, should I make note of. What are some of the easier beers to get "right." I don't want to start with anything too complex, although I'm pretty good in the kitchen, and pretty good at following instruction (recipes). What kind of equipment would a basic starter set include? And most importantly what kind of price tag does home brewing have?

 

[Cobrabit]

Well if you want to just try to see if you'd even like homebrewing, you can get a kit from Mr. Beer. For around $60, you can brew and bottle your first beer. This is where I and many started at. Essentially, it is the easiest way to make beer at home as all you do is sanitize your equipment and boil the hopped liquid malt extract.

Most, like myself, will look to upgrade to the 5 gallon recipes and with that comes additional equipment. Being able to use specialty grains or do a mini mash will greatly enhance the flavor and mouth feel of your beer. The recipe I listed above is a specialty grain recipe that they don't really add a lot of the sugar to convert to alcohol, but add to the color, flavor, and mouth feel. Most of the malt comes from the 6 lbs of liquid malt extract.

Those that really get the itch and have the money and space to do so will go to all-grain brewing. This means that you don't use the malt extract as you'll mash all of the grain yourself. Again, this basically gives you the most control over your beer, but isn't where most start out at.

I would suggest looking around your area for a home brewing supply store and see if they can help you out. Before you buy anything though, compare prices with those found online.

Here are a few links that you might want to check out.

Mr. Beer: Mr.Beer - beer kits, home brewing systems, and microbrewery supplies - Home

Midwest Supplies: Midwest Supplies - Homebrewing and Winemaking

Northern Brewer: Northern Brewer - Home Brewing Supplies and Winemaking Supplies


Many websites have their own brewing kits and give you a basic concept into the equipment you'll need.

 

[Edisto_Tiger]

^^ Thanks for the info. Going to check these out real quick. Trying to watch the Bruins game and play on the internet.

 

[Edisto_Tiger]

I see that one of the starter sets uses plastic bottles as opposed to glass. any advantages to plastic? Or is the plastic more of a "kiddie" pool sort of thing?

 

[Cobrabit]

I see that one of the starter sets uses plastic bottles as opposed to glass. any advantages to plastic? Or is the plastic more of a "kiddie" pool sort of thing?

It isn't a kiddie pool thing, just different than what you would buy in stores. Personally, I like the PET bottles. When you carbonate your beer, there is a chance of over carbonating and with a glass bottle, you won't be able to tell until you have an explosion. With a plastic bottle, the bottle will swell and you can release the pressure, but they won't explode like glass could.

The same can be said with undercarbonating (flat beer). You won't be able to tell with a glass bottle until you open it, but with a plastic bottle, once you squeeze the side, you can tell if it has finished carbonating. Just like if you grab a soda bottle and it's rock hard before opening, but after you do, you can squeeze in the sides.

Secondly, I still use the 1L PET bottles that Mr. Beer sells and that greatly reduces the amount of sanitizing. I only have to sanitize 16-18 1L bottles per 5 gallon batch, versus 48 glass bottles. I know that when I crack a bottle, I will drink the ~32 oz, but if you think you'll only drink one or two 12 oz bottles at a time, then look to go with glass or the 0.5L PET bottles.


It really comes down to your preference.

 

[wartyOne]

I'd like to help, Edisto, but I'm not even sure where to start. I'm of the mindset of "don't waste money on something you're not going to use long term." If you just want to get into extract brewing, either of these books, Clone Brews (Tess and Mark Szamatulski) or North American Clone Brews (Scott R. Russell), a bucket, and a couple cases of bottles will get you where you need to be.

If you want to learn how to brew all grain (like the breweries) the equipment gets ridiculous, but the results are better, and I can help in a myriad of ways. You have control over the malt (extract means you have to trust your malter), recipe (you design it), and process (extract can be messed up, but it's more difficult to do that than it is with an all grain batch).

Not trying to be arrogant, but it definitely matters depending on the level you want to take your brewing experiment. My best piece of advice is this: DON'T BOTTLE!!!!!! Go kegs from the beginning. Bottling sucks. Point blank. Kegging is more expensive initially, but you won't regret it. Bottling is a lot of work, produces shoddy and inconsistent results, and is a lot of work. Also, it's a lot of work. Did I mention that it's a lot of work?

 

[wartyOne]

Well if you want to just try to see if you'd even like homebrewing, you can get a kit from Mr. Beer. For around $60, you can brew and bottle your first beer. This is where I and many started at. Essentially, it is the easiest way to make beer at home as all you do is sanitize your equipment and boil the hopped liquid malt extract.

Most, like myself, will look to upgrade to the 5 gallon recipes and with that comes additional equipment. Being able to use specialty grains or do a mini mash will greatly enhance the flavor and mouth feel of your beer. The recipe I listed above is a specialty grain recipe that they don't really add a lot of the sugar to convert to alcohol, but add to the color, flavor, and mouth feel. Most of the malt comes from the 6 lbs of liquid malt extract.

Those that really get the itch and have the money and space to do so will go to all-grain brewing. This means that you don't use the malt extract as you'll mash all of the grain yourself. Again, this basically gives you the most control over your beer, but isn't where most start out at.

I would suggest looking around your area for a home brewing supply store and see if they can help you out. Before you buy anything though, compare prices with those found online.

Here are a few links that you might want to check out.

Mr. Beer: Mr.Beer - beer kits, home brewing systems, and microbrewery supplies - Home

Midwest Supplies: Midwest Supplies - Homebrewing and Winemaking

Northern Brewer: Northern Brewer - Home Brewing Supplies and Winemaking Supplies


Many websites have their own brewing kits and give you a basic concept into the equipment you'll need.

I like these links, but also use MoreBeer.com. Home Brew Starter Kits | MoreBeer

More Beer typically has better info, and cheaper prices (volume based; morebeer kills the other guys in retail). Edisto peruse, and feel free to ask me a ton before you buy. I've been doing this for 10 years, and I don't mind helping out somebody new to the ranks.

If you have access to a local homebrew club (if you have a local homebrew supply shop, ask them; they'll know) this would be invaluable to you before you start brewing.

 

[Edisto_Tiger]

I like these links, but also use MoreBeer.com. Home Brew Starter Kits | MoreBeer

More Beer typically has better info, and cheaper prices (volume based; morebeer kills the other guys in retail). Edisto peruse, and feel free to ask me a ton before you buy. I've been doing this for 10 years, and I don't mind helping out somebody new to the ranks.

If you have access to a local homebrew club (if you have a local homebrew supply shop, ask them; they'll know) this would be invaluable to you before you start brewing.

Thanks. I'll look around and see if there is a homebrew club or shop nearby.

 

[757Hokie83]

well my "India Pale Weizen" has has been tapped for a few weeks now, very tasty, i was skeptical but i like how it turned out.

my first original recipe turned out damn good, very pleasantly surprised by it, i think it's sort of an american pale ale-ish

i've got a Fat Tire clone lined up ready to brew, but my gf and i are moving to a new house this weekend, so i figured it made more sense to brew that after we get in there, so i just have to carry the ingredients over, rather than haul a 5 gal keg of beer over there

 

[Sleepy T]

Maple Pecan Nut Brown

Either this weekend or next will try to brew my first Brown Ale. I found a recipe that I have altered on the recipe site I use (hopville.com) and it sounded very good. Here is what I have so far.

3.3 lbs (1 can) Amber LME
1.5 lbs Light DME
1 lb Crystal 60L
.5 lb Crystal 80/120L
.5 lb Wheat
.25 lb Victory Malt
.25 lb Chocolate Malt

Fuggle and UK Kent Goldings @ 60, 30, and 5 minutes.
Steeping grains for 30-45 minutes with 8 oz. fresh toasted pecans
Adding 4 oz. of pecans at 5 minutes with the aromas..
Also adding 12 oz. of Grade A 100% maple syrup somewhere, maybe after pasteurizing in the secondary???

Couple ???s.
Anyone have any experience with Maple Syrup?? Have read quite a bit and seems that the best results (for a subtle maple flavor and finish) is adding to the secondary and/or using it for priming.

Anyone have any experience with fresh nuts. Mixed reviews on the extracts that you can get, saying it doesn't taste like the real thing. Also mixed reviews on the Fresh nuts saying that the oils cause the beer to have a weird mouth feel and or possibly even contaminating the beer..

Thoughts???

Let me know what you experts think. Alot of stuff, but with the couple beers I have brewed, have found that the more grains..the better.

 

[wartyOne]

Either this weekend or next will try to brew my first Brown Ale. I found a recipe that I have altered on the recipe site I use (hopville.com) and it sounded very good. Here is what I have so far.

3.3 lbs (1 can) Amber LME
1.5 lbs Light DME
1 lb Crystal 60L
.5 lb Crystal 80/120L
.5 lb Wheat
.25 lb Victory Malt
.25 lb Chocolate Malt

Fuggle and UK Kent Goldings @ 60, 30, and 5 minutes.
Steeping grains for 30-45 minutes with 8 oz. fresh toasted pecans
Adding 4 oz. of pecans at 5 minutes with the aromas..
Also adding 12 oz. of Grade A 100% maple syrup somewhere, maybe after pasteurizing in the secondary???

Couple ???s.
Anyone have any experience with Maple Syrup?? Have read quite a bit and seems that the best results (for a subtle maple flavor and finish) is adding to the secondary and/or using it for priming.

Anyone have any experience with fresh nuts. Mixed reviews on the extracts that you can get, saying it doesn't taste like the real thing. Also mixed reviews on the Fresh nuts saying that the oils cause the beer to have a weird mouth feel and or possibly even contaminating the beer..

Thoughts???

Let me know what you experts think. Alot of stuff, but with the couple beers I have brewed, have found that the more grains..the better.

Syrups and honey can be really tricky, depending on when you include them. As they're fermentables, I wouldn't recommend adding sugars once your yeast starts slowing down. But if you do put them in the boil, it is a VERY involved process (I lost interest in using honey as a result of the difficulty it is to brew with). I know people do use these (molasses too), but it really can be a bigger headache than it's worth.

Don't use nuts in the brew. If you want a nutty flavor, biscuit, aromatic and melanoiden (all specialty grains; additionally, they'll add mouthfeel and head retention) will give you want you need. As you said in that last paragraph, nuts will definitely contaminate your beer. I like the idea of pecans, but I think the result will irritate you.

If you're deadset on using nuts, I'd make an extract. Take some pecans, shell them, and crush them into quarter inch pieces (or something big enough that they won't seep through a hop sock/strainer, but small enough to maximize surface area). Throw the nuts (I don't know what 8 oz of pecans looks like, but your mix should be thin, with more liquid than solid; adjust volumes accordingly, but be careful, because a 5 gallon batch isn't terribly forgiving) into 2 oz of vodka (you can't contaminate vodka; I recommend either grey goose or svedka. Svedka is MUCH cheaper) and let that mixture sit for three or four days (the longer it sits covered in a fridge, the more flavor you're going to pull). When you've attained your desired level of flavor, move this concoction into your secondary (I recommend a bucket instead of a carboy for these applications, unless you have a conical fermenter; they're easier to clean and deal with the extract).

Let sit in secondary for a minimum of three days. Again, like the extract, the longer it sits, the more flavor you're going to pull. Since you have to rack off the secondary into a bottling bucket/keg, you won't be pulling any pecan debris, but you can strain if this concerns you (in a darker beer, it won't matter, because nobody will see anything that gets by).

As for that recipe, I'd bump the chocolate up to half a pound for a really nice dark color (think Moose Drool). If you're going for something more in the color (transparency) range of Newcastle, then you're right on target. The higher chocolate percentage will paint your beer dark, but also add malty richness. Neither way is right"er" or better than the other. Both applications produce very nice beers. It's just what you're in the mood for.

Finally, with regard to hops, I'd move your 30 minute addition down to 15 or 10 minutes. If you need more IBU's, bump your 60 minute addition. A 30 minute addition is going to add nothing but astringent bitterness. At 18 minutes and above, you're adding nothing to the aroma or flavor because the delicate hop by products can't withstand that kind of boil time. I don't know what your target IBU is, but this recipe is going to be on the sweet side with the grain bill (crystal and chocolate), so make sure you balance it to what you're shooting for.

Happy brewing, man. Sounds really good. I hope it turns out the way you want it to (I stopped wishing for beers to turn out good; I've made beers that people drank and said were good, but were miles off my target).

 

[wartyOne]

well my "India Pale Weizen" has has been tapped for a few weeks now, very tasty, i was skeptical but i like how it turned out.

my first original recipe turned out damn good, very pleasantly surprised by it, i think it's sort of an american pale ale-ish

i've got a Fat Tire clone lined up ready to brew, but my gf and i are moving to a new house this weekend, so i figured it made more sense to brew that after we get in there, so i just have to carry the ingredients over, rather than haul a 5 gal keg of beer over there

Sounds good, man. Irish Red I brewed two weeks ago is nails. Still not carbonated enough (got antsy; thought I had an oxidation disaster, but it didn't materialize), but will be by tomorrow.

Blonde ale sitting in the fermenter right now. My brew partner is brewing a Bavarian Hefeweizen on Saturday (can't brew:frown: family in town). Coming up next are second stabs at our American Pale and American IPA.

Just about time for another party. Nearing keg capacity right now. Good times.

 

[757Hokie83]

Sounds good, man. Irish Red I brewed two weeks ago is nails. Still not carbonated enough (got antsy; thought I had an oxidation disaster, but it didn't materialize), but will be by tomorrow.

Blonde ale sitting in the fermenter right now. My brew partner is brewing a Bavarian Hefeweizen on Saturday (can't brew:frown: family in town). Coming up next are second stabs at our American Pale and American IPA.

Just about time for another party. Nearing keg capacity right now. Good times.

you may have mentioned before, but i can't remember, how many keg's are you currently working with?

 

[Sleepy T]

Thanks Warty. I will definitely take your advice on the chocolate, the hop additions, and leave the fresh pecans out. Maybe I will try making an extract as you have stated. I have read from other people that that is a really good way to go, much better than buying bottled extract (probably artificially flavored). Still not really sure what to do with the maple addition (if I even decide to do that)..if I were using it for priming a 5 gallon batch..how much would I use? Assuming you can prime with it?? I have also heard that it could dry it out, leave it over/under carbed...You are right, now that I am talking about it, it all sounds tricky with the syrup...

 

[wartyOne]

you may have mentioned before, but i can't remember, how many keg's are you currently working with?

Four in my kegerator. Three tapped through the door, one on a picnic tap (late addition; kicking myself for not thinking this through on inception).

 

[wartyOne]

Thanks Warty. I will definitely take your advice on the chocolate, the hop additions, and leave the fresh pecans out. Maybe I will try making an extract as you have stated. I have read from other people that that is a really good way to go, much better than buying bottled extract (probably artificially flavored). Still not really sure what to do with the maple addition (if I even decide to do that)..if I were using it for priming a 5 gallon batch..how much would I use? Assuming you can prime with it?? I have also heard that it could dry it out, leave it over/under carbed...You are right, now that I am talking about it, it all sounds tricky with the syrup...

No problem. Happy to help. As far as how much to use to prime with, I can't say. I've never primed with a syrup, and I'd almost certainly give you bad advice on this one. It's a more complex sugar than dextrose, but I don't know how that applies here.